July 10-11 En Route: Got to the airport before 9:00 PM. Fast through TSA given the time of night. Jeff and Donna arrived soon after and we all met at the gate. Boarding was interesting in that they started an hour before takeoff. I got on right away since I was in Biz Class (!!!) with Priority Boarding. Seems as if they boarded the rest of the plane from the back to the front so Jeff and Donna who were in row 3, got on at the end of the process. And then there was quite a stir. Seems as if a smaller plane than scheduled had been substituted. This meant that instead of two rows of Biz Class Big Seats – two to a side, eight overall – there was only one row, four seats in total. Luckily, it was the first row, the one I was in. Folks who had paid for Big Seats were in three-across second row. Same leg room, just narrower seats. Was quite a scene as the ground personnel tried to explain and calm the folks who were upset about all this. While I usually never book bulkhead seats, sure glad I did this time (and on the return flight as well).

However, even with people being moved around, we took off on time. Into the flight, they served food which was for sale. But mine was part of my ticket. Guess I didn’t remember that it was on the outbound flight. Thus, at STL midnight, I had a club sandwich. Took a sleeping pill, but really didn’t get much sleep, perhaps an hour or so overall.

The plane is quite nice. The folks in the back have really cramped knee space, but they are the “cheap seats.” I went to the back to the lavatory and had to dodge feet in the aisle. There are three lavatories with one in front and two at the tail. The one in front is not always available since it’s in the area where the flight attendants are working. For a long flight, seems as if there are too few places to pee. Flight attendants are all Icelandic, young, pretty, and dressed in purple, of course. In STL, those at the check-in counter and at the gate were all African American. Interesting contrast.

July 11 – Reykjavik: Flight arrived ahead of schedule. No jetway. And it was raining, windy, and cold as we set down stairs onto the tarmac. Bus to terminal. Fast through passport control. We stopped for a skyr and espresso snack before going to the baggage claim area. Nice move. Our bags were waiting for us on the carousel. Went to Hertz, got keys, fished out rain jacket from suitcase, heading to Skoda Octavia and drove out of the airport and to the AirBnB. Lovely place, two bedrooms, nice kitchen/common area, one bathroom. Floors are all radiant heat (hot water) room by room, so you can be as toasty as you want. Owner met us, is very pleasant. She put stuff in fridge for us, showed us we could use the clothes dryer in her house which is next to the bungalow we’re in.

Drove into the center of Reykjavik onto Laugadegur St., which has lots of shops and places to eat. Had an egg and avocado toast at Nat. Very tasty. Then walked down the street going into wherever tickled our fancy. And it spit more rain as we went. After going several blocks, we headed on a diagonal street up to the huge church, Hallgrimskirkja, knowing that we’d be back with our regular camera gear since it was all back at our lodging. Beautiful. Then to Valdis for gelato (mango for me) and back to the car. From there we went to a small grocery store near where we are staying to get basics for breakfast and lunches on some days we’ll take food with us.

Went out about 7:00 to Rok where I had the creamy seafood soup filled with mussels, shrimp, langoustines and three small lamb chops with slaw and hummus. Also had a shot of Icelandic aquavit. Yum. Back here at 8:30. Up early tomorrow since we have a ferry to catch at 9:45 and it’s about two hours from here.

So, cold and rainy, but having a great time.

July 12 - Heimaey Island: Got up early and out of here by 7:30 for about a two-hour drive to the ferry terminal at Landeyjahöfn which is on the way to Vik. Only takes 35 minutes to get to the Heimaey Island, part of the Westman Island. Lots of layers today, but were warm and dry. Day had many times it misted, but never really rained. However, the drive to the terminal was through dense fog and some pretty good rain showers.

On the island, we first walked a bit through town and then up into the volcanic hills toward the crater where there was a major eruption in 1973 that covered much of the town. Story goes that they decided to save the fishing port, since that is the main source of business of the island. They pumped saltwater onto the lava flows to cool enough of it near the port that a wall of hardened lava formed. Over 400 homes were lost and many people evacuated.

So, from when we landed about 10:20 until about 1:00, we wandered in the lava field trails taking images. Lovely moss on the lava. Lots of flowers, mostly lupines, everywhere. Good views overlooking the town. Wonderful angles to shoot because of the varied landscape. And having a gray day was actually fun to shoot in since we got fog and mist and gentle light.

Tried to find the volcanic crater itself, but as we got nearer, two women who had just been up there said you could not see into it due to the fog and mist. So we turned back downhill and went to the area where there is a stave church, which was a gift from Norway, and reminds me of ones I’ve seen there. Also there is a medical museum on the site of an early hospital. Nearby is a huge water tank that was crushed by the lava flow. Also, while we were on this jetty area, we took nice wide-angle images of the mountains on the other side of the navigation channel.

Walked back into town and ate at Gott. Lovely ground brisket hamburger, macchiato, and shared a date cake with vanilla ice cream. Then uphill to the Folk Museum where we saw lots of images of the 1973 eruption and learned there were a whole bunch of Mormons from Iceland that came to Utah!

We had been scheduled for a 9:00 PM ferry back, but saw no need to stay and took a 4:00 one instead. Without a car, it was silly to try to explore more than we had on foot. Stopped along the way back for espresso and a chocolate/granola goodie.

About 8:00, drove into town to Loki for lamb soup and the best rye bread you have ever tasted. Then walked down to Valdis for more gelato. Had strawberry skyr gelato. Quite nice. Then back to our lodgings for computers, showers, bed.

July 14 - Reykjanes Peninsula: Had a latish start today given what we wanted to do. So out of here about 8:30 or so. Drove to the Reykjanes Peninsula for the day. First stop was Kleifarvatn, a beautiful and big lake. Went to the shore and then to a lookout above off the road. Then to the Seltún Geothermal Area. Lots of bubbling water and rotten egg smells. Good trails and boardwalks to see all of the different areas.

Drove to the town of Grindavik for a lovely lunch at Bryggjan along the harbour. Had lobster soup and a salmon/egg sandwich followed by a shared chocolate cake with whipped cream. Expensive but good food.

Went to the Blue Lagoon to look at the pools but not to soak. So, there is a trail around white/blue water pools. Nice, but no need to join the crowds in the paid area. Could see the geothermal plant nearby.

Onward to another geothermal area - Gunnuhver Geothermal Area. Huge steam venting and hot water spraying upward. Next to the Reykjanes Lighthouse and out to the coastline for views all along and of Valahnukur Mountain. Big soaring rocks coming out of the ocean. Basalt pieces along the shore.

Got back to Reykjavik around 5:30. Did computer/images stuff before going out for dinner. Went out about 7:30 to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur for lamb hotdogs. Street stand. “The” place for these in Iceland. Actually very good. Then a walk around the harbour to Valdis for carrot cake gelato (Donna rum coconut, Jeff marzipan). Back to the abode at 9:30 to tidy up and head for bed.

July 13 - Snæfellsness Peninsula: Long but great day. Left about 8:00 AM and didn’t get back until about 7:30 PM. Drove 300+ miles. It was rainy all day. It was cold. It was windy. It was beautiful. It was fun (except for small parts of the day when it was a combination of wind, chill, and rain).

It was about 2.5 hours from our lodgings out onto the peninsula. First stop was a small church in Budir. So nasty and it was no big deal; we didn’t stay long. Then to Arnarstapi with great views, but really the worst part of the day for weather. We walked along the cliffs looking at various lava and rock formations. It’s possible to walk about 2.5 km to where we ended up driving … Hellnar. Had a lovely lunch at Primus Kaffi. Had Plokkfish stew w/potatoes. Really is a mash up of fish and mashed potatoes and cream. Yummy! Had a traditional Icelandic happy marriage cake … oats and rhubarb. Also yummy.

Onward to Malariff Lighthouse. We climbed the wooden steps all the way up ending at a very upright wooden ladder onto the platform where the light itself is. While it was still raining outside, we got nice views. Got up and down safely.

Went further along the coast to Londrangar where we saw the “troll rocks” and other lovely views along the coast. Caught a break in the weather for a short time there. Onward to Svortluloft lighthouse over a long, narrow, and pocked gravel road. Really pretty views onto the rocks and along the coast. On the way there, we stopped in a lava field and had views of a mountain range that includes Snæfellsjökull mountain.

Headed to the north side of the peninsula and viewed Kirkjufell Mountain from both sides. It’s an iconic symbol of the country. Got diesel fuel. Headed back the 2.5 hours to Reykjavik.

Donna stayed in the BnB while Jeff and I went grocery shopping and had a great dinner at Resto. Shared a starter of cured salmon and snow crab salad. This was followed by sautéed cod with langoustine sauce over mashed potatoes and cauliflower. Rich and wonderful.

Back “home” for computer work.

A couple of things to add. First, I was warm and mostly dry (pants got damp) all day. Had on five layers – T-shirt, insulated hoodie, sweatshirt, lightweight down jacket, rain jacket. All good. Second, the scenery was astounding even in the mist and rain. Rocks and lava and coastlines like I’ve never seen before. It was, as I said, a great day.

July 15 – Golden Circle: The Golden Circle is where most of the tourists go when they are Reykjavik centered and have limited time. But has some wonderful places, so you can see why they are all tourist attractions. Left lodgings about 8:30 returning about 5:30.

First stop was Þingvellir National Park. It was cold and raining for most of this visit and we were pestered by bugs. But it was good to see the park and see if it a place Jeff wants to take folks. The park straddles two tectonic plates – Eurasian and North American. It’s the place where the first parliament of Iceland met, has a church, river running through the valley. It’s a nice walk over the trail even with the busloads of other folks. We mostly stayed away from them. Good vistas over long distances. Had some respite from the rain. Hard, long walk uphill back to car park.

Next to Geysir for the geyser. Before going out, we had a nice salmon sandwich at the reception building. Again, busloads of folks, but could get really nice burst shots of the main geyser when it blew every 5-8 minutes. Spent a lot of time waiting for the geyser to erupt to get more and better shots. And the sun came out. Part of this place is like Yellowstone and like other places with hot springs and geysers. Very nice.

The main deal was Gullfoss waterfall. Its really big and broad. Our thing there was to use neutral density filters to slow the water in our images to a silky consistency. Experimented and got some nice images. Also worked with Jeff’s crystal ball there. As we left, it really started to rain and rained most of the way back.

Finally, on our way back to Reykjavik, we stopped at Laugarvatn at a place called Galleri and had teatime snacks. I had a fresh baked rye with Brie and an espresso. Yum.

Got home about 5:30, downloaded images, and out to dinner about 7:00 to Old Iceland Restaurant where we had a three-course dinner of smoked salmon, fillet of lamb, and brownie with ice cream. Best meal we’ve had so far. Expensive, but worth it. Oh, and had the Iceland aquavit, Brennivin. Lovely!

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